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Start with about a quarter of a tank, or less, of gas and add a fuel stabilizer (available at auto parts stores or lawn mower dealers) according to the ratio recommended. Run
the engine until the fuel is used up and the engine stops. |
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While the engine is still hot remove the drain plug to the oil reservoir and drain the oil into a suitable container. The drain plug is usually located at the base of the engine underneath the filler
tube. (Check with your owners manual if you have problems locating the drain plug) In order to drain the oil reservoir you will probably have to tip the mower up on its side. When the oil is completely
drained, about 1-2 pints, replace the drain plug. At this time there are no more fluids in the mower and it is a good time to work on the underside of the deck and blade. |
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Important: Before attempting any work under the deck of the mower remove the spark plug lead to disable the engine and make sure it does not inadvertently start should you turn the
blade. You may even want to remove the spark plug as you may want to replace this for next season. Make sure you wear a pair of gloves when removing the blade. |
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Grab the blade with one hand and use a socket (usually 9/16" size) and breaker bar to loosen and remove the center bolt which, holds the blade on (some mowers have two bolts). The bolts will be really
tight so make sure your socket is on the hex of the bolt head properly. These bolts generally loosen in the counter-clockwise direction. Remove the blade and note the position of the
blade washers so you can reassemble everything properly later. With the blade removed you will have great access to all of the nasty buildup that your mower has been chewing on all summer. Use a
heavy-duty scraper to remove all of the built-up grass. It is a good idea to have a spare sharp blade to put on after cleaning and take the dull one in for sharpening. See a local lawn mower dealer for
this as most have a special blade grinder, which does a great job. They can also check for any undue wear or faults and can balance your blade. Look at the hexagon head of the blade mounting bolt to see if
it is worn. The hex corners should be sharply defined and not rounded. If the hex is worn out a socket wrench will tend to slip the next time you need to remove your blade. The bolt must be a
special high tensile (grade 8) bolt so it is best to get it from a lawn mower dealer. After cleaning the deck refit the sharp blade with the washers in their correct position |
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You have finished under the deck so now you can put the mower back on its wheels. The very next thing you need to do is fill the engine with new oil. Most should take just over a pint.
Some do have a dipstick, which will indicate the proper level to fill to. Use regular 10-30 motor oil. |
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Remove the air cleaner, which will be located at the top of the carburator or in the engine cowl. Most manufacturers use only a foam element or paper type filter. If the filter has a lot of dry
grass, dust, oil or other buildup you should replace it. The foam rubber type should be washed out using a cleaning agent (kerosene works ok too). Wring the element dry and spray or spread a little oil over
the outer surface before replacing. The paper type should stay dry. Do not wash the paper type filters out. Blow or brush any loose grass or dust off. If there are any tatters or cracks in the
filter replace it. Clean out the filter housing with a dry cloth before installing the new or cleaned filter. |
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Replace the spark plug and wire. Spray some lubricant (WD-40 type) on the control cables and joints. Work the lubricant in by moving the cables a few times and wipe the mower down with a soft
rag. Do not refill the gas tank until you are ready to use your mower. If you have gasoline in a can make sure it is airtight other wise the light factions will evaporate and the gas may not be good after long
storage. This is why you do not want to leave you mower stored with gasoline in the tank as the tank is vented. The gas will evaporate leaving a varnish type residue resulting in an expensive carburator
repair. |
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Remember if you perform preventative maintenance on your outdoor power equipment your will spend less time at the repair shop and your equipment will stand the test of time. |
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Happy mowing, Tom Petherick |
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